Tbilisi, Kazbegi, Tusheti, Svaneti (All Georgia) & Yerevan (Armenia)
Though it wasn’t the intention, Tbilisi was to mark the beginning of a 6 week hiatus from the bike, the primary reason being that Georgia is home to the mighty Caucasus Mountains, and the best way to explore them was by foot. And with the range rising well above 5000m, I wasn’t about to miss out on that opportunity.
I honestly first heard of Georgia a few years ago when they shot into the news as a result of a conflict with the Russians – I remember looking at a map and thinking it kind of lay in a ‘here be dragons’ part of the world for me, not part of Europe, the middle east or where I knew Asia to be. Indeed geographically they are on the cusp of all three regions although they are firmly trying to form themselves into the European mould – the European flag is often proudly flown alongside their flag (which bears no less than five crosses of St George). They’ve had it rough though being caught up in trying to be European and no longer Soviets, and this in part certainly leading to a loss of much territory in the war with the Russians to the now quasi-independent states of South Ossetia and Abkhazia (although these are effectively just Russian protectorates). For a small nation they have a wealth of culture and history (including their own alphabet) and are a proud positive fun loving nation even though they are struggling economically.
I honestly first heard of Georgia a few years ago when they shot into the news as a result of a conflict with the Russians – I remember looking at a map and thinking it kind of lay in a ‘here be dragons’ part of the world for me, not part of Europe, the middle east or where I knew Asia to be. Indeed geographically they are on the cusp of all three regions although they are firmly trying to form themselves into the European mould – the European flag is often proudly flown alongside their flag (which bears no less than five crosses of St George). They’ve had it rough though being caught up in trying to be European and no longer Soviets, and this in part certainly leading to a loss of much territory in the war with the Russians to the now quasi-independent states of South Ossetia and Abkhazia (although these are effectively just Russian protectorates). For a small nation they have a wealth of culture and history (including their own alphabet) and are a proud positive fun loving nation even though they are struggling economically.
All this along with the tremendous Caucasus Mountains makes for an ideal tourist destination, that is still largely unknown – It’s fun (no need to follow any rules to closely!), a wealth of history and culture (they’re an ancient culture dating back many thousands of years BC and likely invented wine making), has stunning mountain scenery (which includes summer trekking and biking and winter skiing) and it’s cheap (when 2l of beer is less than 2 Euros you know you’re in for a good time!). So needless to say our time here was fun, interesting and relaxing.
First up though I was after an Iranian visa. Having travelled Europe and turkey on my British passport I now had to change allegiances, as the Brits have not enamoured themselves to middle eastern countries like Iran, while I suppose South Africa has remained neutral. However I discovered that air and land borders have one distinct difference – when you fly, no one cares where you came from, whereas on land they obviously know, and check. Thus the Georgians wouldn’t let me enter on the South African passport which necessitated an expensive 30min flight and a night sleeping on the floor of Yerevan airport in Armenia so I could return to Georgia the next morning...Iran had better be worth all this effort! Correct stamp in passport I anxiously entered the (then) intimidating Iranian embassy expecting an uphill battle, but it was not to be – Two days later I had the seemingly elusive visa and before long I would be able to enter the demonised enigmatic country of which the traveller’s word seemed to suggest a very different story.
Visa in hand, focus shifted straight to the mountains and we picked the remote Tusheti region and organised ourselves a ride. We guessed something was up when said ride came only in the form of a 4x4 and necessitated a 6hr drive for the 70km trip, a quick perusal at a map revealed a 2500m ascent and the internet said it had featured on a TV show of dangerous roads…right. An ominous deluge preceded our departure but via charades our driver indicated we were good to go and we departed forthwith. Heading straight into a rugged verdant gorge the gradient ramped up, the going was precarious, the 4x4 was engaged and the driving was brisk. Before long the effects of the deluge halted progress with a stream now a river and the road in that vicinity having been carried into the gorge far below. Before long though an ancient bulldozer arrived from somewhere and brazenly smashed a road of sorts back into place.
All well except that during this recess the various drivers had made the best of the downtime by obliterating a bottle of chacha, which happens to be a locally made spirit of somewhere between 40-60%.
Fired up and now in convey this naturally led to rally style race-your-mate, fun for them, not so much for us. Three more landslides later and two of the poor ancient earth movers working into dusk before their tracks broke and we were left a little shy of the 3000m pass to camp out amongst the foreboding mountains. Given the importance of tourism in the short summer season here, the locals were not enamoured with this predicament but there was nothing for it and for us retreat was the only option. The infamous Anne Price stare was required the following morning to quell our youthful driver’s further enthusiasm for a morning chacha and more rallying with his mates. Thankfully we survived and later that day were back in Tbilisi plotting another foray into the mountains.
Sandwiched between the two new(ish) quasi Russian states is the Svaneti region, less remote due to a thoroughly upgraded road but no less fascinating and adorned with spectacular mountain scenery. It also offered a train ride to get most of the way there before climbing aboard another marshrutka (otherwise known elsewhere as a minibus). Though we did eventually make it this time it was not before another lengthy delay, this time the locals protesting over their dwindling rights to harvest timber for winter fuel.
The entire Svaneti region is littered with Towers of stone built up to a thousand years ago, which on first glance appear to have been built in defence against invaders. Apparently however, one of their main purposes was defending against blood feuds with other locals, which sure must have led to some extremely awkward neighbourly living!
Fired up and now in convey this naturally led to rally style race-your-mate, fun for them, not so much for us. Three more landslides later and two of the poor ancient earth movers working into dusk before their tracks broke and we were left a little shy of the 3000m pass to camp out amongst the foreboding mountains. Given the importance of tourism in the short summer season here, the locals were not enamoured with this predicament but there was nothing for it and for us retreat was the only option. The infamous Anne Price stare was required the following morning to quell our youthful driver’s further enthusiasm for a morning chacha and more rallying with his mates. Thankfully we survived and later that day were back in Tbilisi plotting another foray into the mountains.
Sandwiched between the two new(ish) quasi Russian states is the Svaneti region, less remote due to a thoroughly upgraded road but no less fascinating and adorned with spectacular mountain scenery. It also offered a train ride to get most of the way there before climbing aboard another marshrutka (otherwise known elsewhere as a minibus). Though we did eventually make it this time it was not before another lengthy delay, this time the locals protesting over their dwindling rights to harvest timber for winter fuel.
The entire Svaneti region is littered with Towers of stone built up to a thousand years ago, which on first glance appear to have been built in defence against invaders. Apparently however, one of their main purposes was defending against blood feuds with other locals, which sure must have led to some extremely awkward neighbourly living!
Taking straight to the mountains we charged up through the mist to get our first proper vista of the mighty Caucasus, managing to get up to 3300m before the weather closed in around us. Descent however yielded a stunning image of the twin peaked Mt Ushba, an exceedingly technical ascent that has claimed the lives of more than a few daring mountaineers.
A sublime four day trek followed that wound its way past glaciers and remote villages, with each night the chance to stay in local’s homestays. It now became apparent that one nation has discovered holidaying in Georgia, as the trail was inundated with young Israelis. A cacophonous lot but always friendly and kudos to them for hitting the mountains whilst others of similar age are pissed up on Spanish beaches! Priceless to were the looks on their faces as 68 year old mother sauntered by while many of them were toiling up the steep climbs.
With days left before mother’s departure we boarded an overnight train to Tbilisi and another on to Yerevan.
For a very small poor country the centre of Yerevan is a happening place with a great vibe and architectural highlights. The best of which for me was a pedestrian avenue leading through the centre up a 50m wide set of stairs, which offer great views over the city and onto Mount Ararat. And dotted throughout this area are a range of eclectic sculptures and artwork that add much intrigue.
It is now exactly 100 years since the Armenian genocide and the Armenians are determinedly pressing on with recognition of the atrocities that were committed. Of which a visit to the genocide museum exposes these in all their heartrending detail, it was so overwhelmingly horrifying that it was genuinely difficult to look at everything on display. After the moving experience at Ani, now abused and neglected, and coming to understand the scale and brutality of this genocide we could not but despise the Turks and numerous world powers for blocking recognition so as to remain in favour with the powerful Turks, I certainly was not proud to have a British passport given their stance of denial on the subject.
And so three months, thousands of kilometres and a myriad of experiences later and it was time for the legend that is my mother to depart. It seems she took to this lifestyle though and plans are already underway for her to ride off on her own as well as join me once summer returns to wherever I happen to be. I sure am one lucky son, for I know of no others who’d be able to undertake such a journey with their mother, and I know that all who know her would agree!